Huge Surf Creates Outstanding Spectating

The National Weather Service has issued a high surf advisory for north and west facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, Maui, and the Big Island. The advisory went into effect this morning at about 3a.m. and will remain in effect until 6a.m. Friday January 6th. This means the waves have dropped below a consistent 20 feet, but they remain bigger than 15 feet. Huge surf always mean real excitement among the surfing community in Hawaii, and this is the biggest swell of the winter season so far. Surfers gather every year on the North Shore to await the swells which create some of the best waves in the world all winter, and it is a place where many of the most important events in the surfing world occur. This year the Van’s Triple Crown has come and gone, and the Quiksilver In Memory Of Eddie Aikau big wave surfing contest is in a holding period, waiting for the most ideal conditions possible in Waimea bay. The massive waves that reach the North Shore not only attract professional surfers, but visitors from all over the world who flock to the beaches of the North Shore when the swells reach these heights. Witnessing the raw power and beauty of these waves is hard to put into words, and watching the surfers slide across the faces of giant waves is incredible. The waves never seem as big until there is a little man skipping across the surface to really put the incredible size into perspective. Hawaii News Now interviewed Ian Masterson, known as “the surfing professor”, who had gone out very early in the morning of January 4th – when the swell was at its height – and he told them “We waited almost a half an hour to paddle out, because there was set after set after set.” He also added that “People coming in with broken boards and swimming in, without boards before the lifeguards came on duty.” The ocean is a powerful force and deserves the utmost respect. The surf that is reaching the shores of Hawaii this week is nothing to be messed around with, and should be left to the professionals. As Duke Kahanomoku taught, you never turn your back on the ocean.

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